Yes, I admit it. I am a hair care junkie. People may think I am obsessed with skincare, but the truth is when it comes to products for my golden locks things get out of control. There was a moment in my life when I had so many hair care products that I could open my hair salon (I am not exaggerating, believe me). A huge variety of shampoos, leave-on treatments, hair sprays, masks, serums, straightening balms, curling mists, volume powders – I don’t even remember all the stuff that I had. When I started my Master in Medicinal chemistry I was very passionate about one particular course – Chemicals in Personal Care Products. I admit that I learned a lot from our professor but I also did my research and I don’t regret it.

Here is some “intriguing” info about 3 widely used chemicals in hair care products, that made me throw away half of the masks, serums, and mists that I was using at that time.

Behentrimonium chloride

If you have more than 5 hair masks/conditioners at home (that are not organic, of course) take 3 of them and take a look at the labels. Chances are you’ll find Behentrimonium chloride listed among the first ingredients. Behentrimonium chloride (also known as docosyltrimethylammonium chloride or BTAC-228) is a waxy-like substance that works as a de-frizzer and conditioning agent. It is the manufacturer’s favorite because it keeps your locks frizz-free and makes them manageable and soft. Behentrimonium chloride is considered toxic in concentrations of 0.1% and higher and is suspected to cause skin and eye irritations. Though some claim there is not enough evidence supporting this theory, for me the European laws say it all:

In Europe, the amount of Behentrimonium chloride allowed in rinse-off and leave-on products shouldn’t exceed a certain percentage (rinse-off hair care products up to 5.0% & leave-on hair products up to 3.0%.).

If this compound wasn’t potentially dangerous, then most probably no one would have set these regulatory requirements, right?

PEG 150 Distearate

Like most PEG’s (polyethylene glycols), this one serves primarily as an emulsifier and thickener. Though PEG 150 Distearate has a high molecular weight, which makes it unlikely to penetrate the skin barrier, it is suspected to contain traces of harmful impurities like Ethylene Oxide (mutagen which increases the risk of cancer; neurotoxin and skin irritant) and 1,4-Dioxane (cancerogenic compound, often found as a contaminant in various personal care product available on the market). Apart from that, when heated, PEG 150 produces vapors that can cause dizziness, nausea, and eye irritation. If traces of PEG 150 are left on your hair and you use a flat iron after a bath, do the math – slow poisoning over a long period. 

Silicones & Dimethicones

What not to love about silicones and silicone-based polymers, like dimethicones? They make your hair shine, baby soft to the touch, manageable, and healthy-looking (yes, even when it’s burnt after regular flat iron abuse and bleaching). Silicones are probably the most widely used ingredients in the hair care industry and can be found everywhere – starting from shampoos, going through masks/conditioners, and ending at serums for split ends/damaged hair. Similar to mineral oil used in the manufacturing of skincare, silicones coat the hair fiber, helping it retain moisture. Besides that, they “glue” the hair cuticles, making the surface of the hair smoother. 

Smoother hair reflects more light and appears shiny and healthy. And we all want to be blinding, don’t we? Enough with the benefits, let’s talk about the not-so-bright-and-shiny side of the silicones. While silicones are considered relatively safe, some of them, being not water-soluble, build up, and do not allow your scalp to breathe. They can also clog the hair follicles, stopping the process of normal hair growth. Accumulation of silicones can weigh down your hair making it appear greasy and lifeless. Apart from these aesthetic problems that can occur with regular use, few people know that when heated, silicones (in particular Cyclopentasiloxane) release formaldehyde, which causes breathing problems, skin, and eye irritation, nausea, and headaches. And believe me, your heat-protectant spray contains at least one type of silicone. You can check.

What did I do after finding out all these “hidden benefits” of my favorite hair care products? Well, I did some more research and I found that there are safer, greener, and even cheaper alternatives that perform just as well (tested and proven to work!).

Natural Hair Care Alternatives

Jojoba Oil 
Thanks to its waxy-like properties, jojoba oil forms a thin protective layer around the hair strand, that keeps the water locked in, making your locks look hydrated and healthy. I use it like leave-on treatment/serum and my hair has never been so shiny and manageable. Be careful with the quantity though and focus on the lengths of your hair, when applying. Jojoba oil is also famous for having a long-shelf-life (without nasty preservatives!) which makes it worth the money. If your scalp is too oily, you can try rebalancing it with weekly jojoba masks. Jojoba oil has a structure similar to the sebum your skin naturally produces. With regular use, I promise, you’ll see the difference! 

Argan Oil
No wonder so many products available on the market have it on top of their ingredient lists. It makes hair softer and shinier, when used, both as pre-shower treatment and leave-on (especially if you have dry, coarse hair –this thing is ah-ma-zing!). It tames frizz, providing a silky smooth finish and glossy look. Thanks to the high content of vitamin E (a powerful antioxidant and nourishing agent), when applied directly on the scalp, Argan oil boosts the growth of healthy, strong hair. True miracle worker.

When you exit the shower, it’s not always soap and dirt you’ve left behind. Instead, you may find clumps of hair clinging to your drain.The good news is, even if you feel like the clump looks super-sized, hair falling out in the shower is totally normal — everyone, regardless of gender, sees some shedding during a scrub.

Keep reading to find out why hair falls out in the shower — and when you should call your doctor about your hair loss you see in the shower or beyond.

The Stages of Hair Growth

There are several phases of hair growth. A 2017 research review showed that these phases include the following phases:
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• Anagen. Approximately 85% to 90% of hair is in this active growth phase at any given time.
• Catagen. About 10% of hair is in this degenerative growth phase at any given time.
• Telogen. About 5% to 10% of hair is in this resting phase at any given time.

A 2018 research review showed that when these phases are in their normal balance, the average person sheds about 100 hairs a day.

You shed your hair during the telogen phase. If the phases become imbalanced and more hair enters the telogen phase, you may observe increased hair loss.

Additional factors for hair falling out in the shower

It’s understandably difficult to go back in your shower and count each hair individually. So, before you worry about shower-related hair loss, consider a few factors:

• Your hair thickness. Thick hair typically has a higher number of hairs overall. Proportionally, you may lose more hair because you have more hair.
• When you last took a shower. Hair often falls out in the shower because you stimulate your scalp when you shampoo or condition your hair. Your hairs that were already destined to fall out get the nudge they need from shampooing, and your hair comes off your head. If it’s been a few days since your last shower, you may notice more hairs falling out.
• When you last really brushed your hair. This is a similar principle to when you shower. Combing and brushing your hair, along with showering, are the two events where you’re most likely to notice hair loss.

The shower is usually the place where you notice hair coming out the most. While it may seem like there’s a lot of hair, it’s probably just your body’s natural way of shedding.

What Could Be Causing Hair To Fall Out in the Shower

If you feel like the clumps of hair you see in the shower are larger than usual — or also are coming out in large amounts on your hairbrush — you should first consider any potential underlying causes.

Stress

According to a 2017 research review, an increase in clumps of hair in the shower is often due to telogen effluvium. This condition occurs more hairs are in the telogen phase and, thus, fall out more easily.

The same research review above showed that the most common trigger is something many people know well: stress.

Stress may be physical (such as after an illness or weight loss) or emotional. Usually, if you think back to the past 3 months or more, you may be able to connect higher stress levels to hair loss.

When to Call a Doctor About Hair Falling Out in the Shower
 
If you don’t feel like stress could be the underlying cause or you’re still not sure, it may be time to call your doctor.

One symptom that could indicate a need to call your doctor is the pattern of hair loss.

When you experience telogen effluvium, the hair loss is usually all over your head. If the hair loss is profound, you may feel like your hair is thinning significantly.

Hair loss due to other conditions, such as alopecia areata, usually causes patchy hair loss. This is a different, but treatable, underlying cause of hair loss.

Preventing Hair from Falling Out in the Shower

If you notice your shower hair loss more, there are at-home actions you can take that may slow the shed. These include:

Combatting your stress

Finding ways to relax can help fight stress, which is known to be a cause of hair loss.

Examples could include:

• getting more sleep
• exercising
• meditating
• trying to take at least 10 to 15 minutes for yourself every day

Addressing the source of stress

While this isn’t always possible, take a look at what is causing your stress. Perhaps you are taking on too many projects outside of work, or you have a friend or family member who is asking too much of you.

When possible, lessening or removing the stress source can help resolve hair loss and make you feel better overall. Talk to your employer or people who are close with you about how they might be able to help you.

Changing your diet

Your body requires a number of vitamins and minerals to grow hair. These include:

• vitamin A
• vitamin D
• iron
• selenium
• zinc
• other nutrients

While vitamins are available, often the best way to incorporate these is to add more nutritional foods to your diet.

Colorful fruits and vegetables are excellent sources of nutrients. Make an effort to add one to two a day, and you can ideally improve your hair health.

Taking gentle care of your hair

Heat styling, harsh brushing habits, or strong chemicals used on your hair can all increase the rate of hair loss due to breakage.

Taking steps such as switching to a gentle shampoo, allowing your hair to air-dry after bathing, or refraining from wearing very tight hairstyles can all help to reduce the amount of hair that falls out later in the shower.

Does shower frequency matter?

There’s some debate over whether taking fewer showers could reduce hair shedding.

If you’re using super-hot water or irritating hair products in the shower, taking fewer showers could likely reduce hair shedding. But waiting longer between showers as a way to reduce hair loss could just mean you notice more hairs in the shower.

The hairs that do fall out naturally are always going to, no matter what, and it can look like a lot more shedding that it is since they’ve had a few days to build up.

Takeaway

Hair shedding in the shower usually isn’t cause for concern — it’s just the place you’re most likely to notice your hair coming out. This is true for males and females.

Talk with your doctor if you notice any of the following:

• your hair seems to be falling out at an increased rate
• you notice patches of hair coming out
• you can’t track your hair loss back to a possible cause

If you've been making your own cold process soap and using it in your shower, how about using your soap as a shampoo?

Many people use their cold process soap as a shampoo bar as well. But hair is different than skin, so you need to do a few things differently in order to have the best results. Most soap makers recommend:
​

1. Formulating your recipe differently—both in terms of the oils chosen, but in the additives and superfat percentage
2. Using a vinegar or citric acid rinse
3. Knowing that some people's hair just doesn't work well with real soap—and being okay with going back to a standard surfactant-based shampoo. There are so many variants, like the hardness of the water where you live and your particular hair type, that they just don't work for everyone.

Basic, Mild Shampoo Recipe
​

• 25 percent coconut oil
• 25 percent olive oil
• 20 percent castor oil
• 15 percent canola oil
• 15 percent palm oil

​To make a 2-lb batch:

• 5.8 ounces coconut oil
• 5.8 ounces olive oil
• 4.6 ounces castor oil
• 3.5 ounces canola oil
• 3.5 ounces palm oil
• 3.2 ounces sodium hydroxide
• 6.4 ounces water
• 3/4 tsp of salt (to make the soap get harder quicker)
• 1 tsp of sugar (to boost the lather)
• 1 ounce of fragrance or essential oil blend

​Light Cleansing Recipe
​

• 30 percent coconut oil
• 25 percent olive oil
• 25 percent castor oil
• 10 percent palm oil
• 10 percent canola oil

To make a 2-lb batch:

• 6.9 ounces coconut oil
• 5.8 ounces olive oil
• 5.8 ounces castor oil
• 2.3 ounces palm oil
• 2.3 ounces canola coil
• 3.2 ounces sodium hydroxide
• 6.4 ounces water
• 3/4 tsp of salt (to make the soap get harder quicker)
• 1 tsp of sugar (to boost the lather)
• 1 ounce of fragrance or essential oil blend

​Luxury Shampoo Recipe
​

• 25 percent coconut oil
• 20 percent olive oil
• 20 percent castor oil
• 10 percent canola oil
• 10 percent avocado oil
• 10 percent palm oil
• 5 percent jojoba

​To make a 2-lb batch:

• 5.8 ounces coconut oil
• 4.6 ounces olive oil
• 4.6 ounces castor oil
• 2.3 ounces canola oil
• 2.3 ounces avocado oil
• 2.3 ounces palm oil
• 1.2 ounces jojoba
• 3.1 ounces sodium hydroxide
• 6.2 ounces water
• 3/4 tsp of salt (to make the soap get harder quicker)
• 1 tsp of sugar (to boost the lather)
• 1 ounce of fragrance or essential oil blend

​To make these soaps, follow basic soap making instructions. The amount of water in these recipes are low so that they will harden quicker in the molds. The high percentage of soft oils in the recipes can make them take a while to harden in the mold.

You'll want to make sure to add the salt and the sugar to the lye water. The salt helps the soap to get harder quicker and the sugar helps boost the lathering ability of the soap.

Rinse

Because of the high pH of cold process soap, most people use a slightly acidic rinse on their hair after using a shampoo bar. The high pH raises the cuticle of the hair follicle, making it more prone to damage. The rinse helps lay it back down.

You can make the rinse out of either:

• 1 cup vinegar (apple cider or white) to 2 cups water or
• 1 tbsp. citric acid powder to 3 cups water

​Give shampoo bars a try. Some people rave about them; some people like them, but prefer a traditional shampoo. 

For you DIYers:

Learn a practical skill, create gifts, and let your creativity run loose all at the same time by taking up the art of soap making. DIY soap is loaded with natural and aromatic products that are better for your skin and the planet. We've gathered 21 easy homemade soap recipes for beginners.

 21 Creative Handmade Soap Recipes for Beginners

I started using apple cider vinegar hair rinse a few years ago when I stopped using shampoos with sulfates or harsh cleansing agents. I was looking for something natural to help clarify buildup from my scalp and hair without having to use a harsh clarifying shampoo.

Using apple cider vinegar over the last few years has really helped me improve my overall hair and scalp health. Read on for all the benefits of the ACV rinse and helpful tips on how to apply one for the best hair care.
​
Benefits of Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

The apple cider vinegar rinse is a really easy way to clarify your hair. It helps to remove product build-up, as well as seal the hair cuticles to prevent frizz and boost shine. Because it’s clarifying, it also helps to give your hair some volume, which is something women struggle with a lot.

Ensuring that your scalp is healthy is a really important part of growing healthy hair. Failing to clarify your scalp well can lead to scalp irritation, dandruff, and excess shedding. It can also result in your hair appearing oily more quickly between washes so that you are compelled to wash hair too frequently.

Using ACV rinse every now and then clarifies product buildup and excess oils to leave your scalp refreshed. Being an acidic substance, apple cider vinegar is also beneficial for balancing the ph levels of your hair.

Hair that is frizzy or dull tends to be more alkaline, so using the ACV rinse can really help to balance that out and leave you with silky, shiny hair. Clarifying curly hair with the rinse can also help you reset your curls, making some ‘proven methods’ finally work for you.

How to Use ACV Rinse for Scalp and Hair Care

One of my favorite aspects of the apple cider vinegar rinse is how easy it is to make one. All you need to do is mix 1 part apple cider vinegar with 2 parts water in a jar or a bottle. The amount of each is really up to you and your preferences, just stick to the 1:2 ratio. For example, if you want to use 1 cup of apple cider vinegar, you should mix it with 2 cups of water. I typically use half a cup of apple cider vinegar to one cup of water, but take your hair length and density into consideration and use what works for you.

Once you have your rinse, it’s time to hop in the shower. You can use this rinse in a few different ways:

• as a final rinse, after shampooing and conditioning,
• in between your shampoo and conditioner,
• at the beginning of your shower, before shampooing (the go-to method if the smell really bothers you).

​I prefer to use it after rinsing out my shampoo. I carefully pour the rinse over my scalp and gently massage it in. Then, I pour the rest over my length and ends and let the hair rinse sit on my hair for 1-2 minutes before rinsing with water. I follow with my conditioner as usual – I find that this helps to get rid of the smell more easily. Here is what I get.

If you choose to use it as a final hair rinse, you would apply it the same way after your conditioner and not rinse it out at all. Regardless of which way you choose to use it, one important thing to remember is not to get it in your eyes! I’ve made that mistake once and it was not a great experience, to say the least.

For those of you with color-treated hair, the apple cider vinegar rinse is not very acidic, so you can safely use it without stripping your hair color. Vinegar for hair can only affect its color when used more often than twice per week.

Helpful Tips and Tricks

​The only downside of this rinse is the apple cider vinegar smell. I find that it goes away once my hair is completely dry, but if the smell bothers you a lot, I would recommend adding some flower extract or essential oils to your rinse when you make it. Some of my favorites are rosemary, lavender, and ylang ylang. Using the rinse in between your shampoo and conditioner can also help.

The ACV rinse doesn’t need to be used more than once a week. Overall, the frequency will depend on your hair type and how much build-up you experience. I personally use this about once or twice a month, but I don’t use any type of hairspray or styling products on my hair. On the rare occasion that I use dry shampoo, I might follow up with this rinse to clear it all out later.

It’s also important to note that if you have low porosity or protein-sensitive hair, this rinse might make your hair feel dry and brittle. If that’s the case, use this rinse once a month at most, and dilute it with some more water. If your hair still feels dry, follow up with a hydrating hair mask on your next wash day. If this doesn’t solve the dry hair issue, try using an alternative clearing product like New Wash, which gets great reviews from those following the no-poo method.
​
As always, listen to your hair, focus on what works best for your hair type and your hair care preferences, and ACV rinse will become the best friend for your hair and scalp.

The apple cider vinegar rinse is one of the DIY treatments that I have been using the longest throughout my hair journey. I’m always really pleased with the results, and it’s really helped me maintain scalp and hair health.


From The Right Hairstyles

Almost a year ago today, I suffered one of the greatest betrayals of my life.

OK, that's dramatic. But it's hard to overstate the magnitude of shook the curly hair community was back in January 2020.

It all started when influencer Ayesha Malik posted a tearful and scathing video warning her roughly 250,000 followers to stop using the beloved, longstanding golden standard of curly hair products: DevaCurl. Her brunette corkscrews as frazzled as her emotions, Malik explained how she went from proud brand ambassador to boycott leader: Over the course of a year, she started noticing inexplicable damage to her prized, perfectly preserved locks, her thick mane not only thinning but changing texture in a way usually induced only by chemical relaxers.

She was far from the only one.

Malik's video opened the flood gates. Other influencers and even DevaCurl stylists came forward, culminating in a Facebook support group of 60,000 echoing similar experiences that led to a class-action lawsuit. The lawsuit names some of the most popular products, including their entire shampoo cleanser and conditioner line, leave-ins, styling gels, and repair treatments. Influencers who hadn't experienced these negative effects weighed in, too, most with support and belief in the allegations but others to challenge the accusations.

Watching this chaos unfold, it felt like the ground fell from beneath me as I realized DevaCurl — the products I once heralded as the divine savior of my hair and beauty — might be the culprit for the damage I'd been literally losing hair over. After years of happily spending thousands of dollars on DevaCurl products and services, I threw away gallons of the stuff in the trash, doubtful that I could ever trust again.

Straight-haired readers might eye-roll at the idea of mourning a brand like this. But fellow curly-haired sisters know the struggle and sacred journey of learning how to care for, embrace, and hopefully even love your curls. It comes only after years of trauma.

While curly hair stigma is pretty universal, as a white Latina myself I've had the privilege of not being subjected to the worst of it. For Black girls and women especially, natural afro-textured curls are politicized, discriminated against, and almost completely excluded from mainstream beauty standards, media representation of all kinds, and literal curly hair ad campaigns. From Mia in the Princess Diaries to country music-era Taylor Swift (whose curls allegedly miraculously straightened due to natural causes right as she became more mainstream pop), at an early age we're fed the clear message that curls are something to be fixed, eradicated, straightened out.

The insecurities of growing up with curly hair are so real that Dove saw a business opportunity in exploiting them in the way they did body image insecurities. Despite knowing it's all bogus (no one recommends actually using Dove curl products), I still cry every time I watch this old commercial.

For curly women and girls, your hair is the first thing people notice about you. For better or for worse, curls become inextricably tied to your identity. Whether that identification takes the form of self-loathing or defiant pride all depends on finding the right products and styling techniques.

The DevaCurl cult-following went beyond products, too, with a whole oeuvre of essentials like the famed Curly Girl Method and pricey Devachan salons with special Devacuts and Pintura highlights. Despite the high cost, it always felt worth it, an investment into the best ingredients that nurture your curls that need to recover from years of trying every damaging fix under the sun.

Seeing the company's fall from grace felt like a loss of identity. The products once responsible for making me feel beautiful for the first time ever as a young girl were now potentially ruining the locks I'd worked so hard to love.

To be clear, nothing has been proven. In a statement to its "devoted Deva community," in February, the company said it was, "committed to providing the information you need to continue to use DevaCurl with confidence." Pointing to the "rigorous and thorough testing" all their products undergo, it promised to work with "an independent third-party toxicologist to verify the safety of these formulas." (Though expert doctors in this New York Times article question many of the facts DevaCurl presents on its website to refute allegations.)

It's been pretty much crickets ever since, but the damage was already done. The lawsuit is ongoing with no trial date set, but both sides have asked to make their case before a jury, according to court documents.

My trusted longtime hairdressers at CurlsOneonOne (owned by two incredible ladies I met at the now-closed Los Angeles Devachan) are dubious that DevaCurl is to blame for my case. To be fair, I'd been pretty aggressively bleaching my hair Khaleesi-silver since 2014.

But when my colorist cut me off in 2019, my curls didn't bounce back like usual during bleaching breaks. The alarming amount of hair fall continued, along with scalp dryness and curl pattern loss after six months of nothing but Olaplex for color damage and deep conditioner treatments.

However, discontinuing all DevaCurl use led to immediate improvement. More damning still, months post-DevaCurl, I had a curl-mergency and only access to the travel-size Ultra Defining Gel (a product listed in the lawsuit) that I kept in my purse. Even a small amount caused that now-familiar burning sensation and unusual shedding during my next shower

Listen, I can't say whether DevaCurl is the cause. But breaking from my religious devotion to the brand opened up new paths of discovery that only made me understand, embrace, and appreciate my curls more. But the process of finding new products and a new regimen was harrowing — and expensive. It takes lots of trial and error.

In August, Malik made her first video since that explosive one in January, her curls miraculously unchopped and more fortified. She says she worked day and night to recover from the Deva damage, and still has a long way to go. But from where I'm standing, it's the hope every suffering curly girl needs to know they can bounce back from this.

Though I don't claim to be an expert, after dozens upon dozens of products and hours of research, though, I've picked up a thing or two. So here's my guide to replacing DevaCurl. Everyone's curls are unique, so not everything will work for you. But maybe we can learn from each other while on our individual journeys to curl perfection. 
​
[Editor's Note: While the writer independently purchased almost everything listed here, BounceCurl did provide samples for review].

1. Find your curly hair gurus.
Like everything in the influencer economy, curly hair YouTubers get sponsorships and make money the more you spend on products they recommend, which incentivizes lots of bullshit.

But the best beauty bloggers know the value of their honest opinion is worth more than a #sponcon payday. Trust the ones who are transparent about their relationship to brands and that include unmonetized content and affordable options.

That's why I personally love Bianca Renee. Aside from sharing the same hairstylists, she's never led me astray on general consumer knowledge. She's great for learning how to be a smart shopper, figuring out what's right for you, which products you really need, the no-no ingredients, exploring options, and testing brands for that curly girl seal of approval.

For styling routines and tricks, seek out curl gurus with similar hair textures and concerns.

Fellow 3B-C girls should check Manes by Mell. She has a wealth of tutorials, with videos for every type of situation like changing seasons, sleep-to-wash-to-style-to-refresh regimens, correct product application, essential accessories, mistakes to avoid, budget picks, and technique pros and cons. She was anti-Curly Girl Method before it was cool so I trust her as a zero-bullshit stylist (and notably one of the most vocal influencers denying Devacurl damage).

2. Throw out all those strict rules and experiment instead.
Treat all curl advice and rules from tried-and-true methods with skepticism, including mine. None of us really know anything except what's worked for us. Feel free to deviate and, above all, question assumptions and one-size-fits-all truisms.
In my many years of Curly Girl Method devotion, I was told sudsy shampoos and brushes were sacrilege. But failing to cleanse my roots likely contributed to product build-up that caused scalp issues, hair loss, and stunted growth. Meanwhile, exclusively finger brushing led to uneven product distribution.

I religiously stuck to wash-and-go air drying to avoid heat damage, with no patience for diffusing. But like a curly hair newbie hopping on the latest TikTok trend, I tried plopping for the first time. To my amazement, it cut my dry time in half and created amazing from-the-root volume with zero extra effort.

See your journey as a literal experiment: Make hypotheses, test them, add and subtract variables, and through deductive reasoning learn what leads to more consistent great hair days.

3. You do NOT have to spend a lot of money for great products.
One of the good disillusionments from this DevaCurl fiasco was realizing some of the best, healthiest products for curly hair are affordable drugstore picks.

SheaMoisture and Cantu, for example, are always in the $5-$10 range. Cheap, trusted classics help keep your routine affordable, especially when it comes to shampoo and conditioners which wash out of your hair rather than staying on it for days like a styling product.

Save your money for treatments or fun stuff like Curlsmith's temporary color hair makeup (which worked great on me for Halloween). By saving on products you can also likely budget for great curl specialists and stylists, too, which I still recommend paying top dollar for rather than going to the nearest SuperCuts.

4. Don't underestimate the importance of the right accessory.
The above rule still applies here, but don't blow your budget on products alone.
The three brushes I now can't live without for wash days include:

• The Maxsoft Hair Scalp Massager for cleansing with a gentle shampoo
• Detangling with this and a conditioner
• The Denman brush for styling

Also great for your arsenal:

• An ultra-fine microfiber towel (or 100% cotton t-shirt) for plopping
• If you like diffusers, research good budget options. No need to drop hundreds on that Dyson monstrosity.
• A misting spray bottle for refreshing curls
• A sleeping cap or turban made of gentle fabrics like microfiber or silk so your curls last longer between wash days
• Better yet, invest in silk pillowcases, which are expensive but did wonders for both my curls and skin
• If you live somewhere with terrible water quality like me, get a shower water filter! Do research into affordable picks targeting the specific chemicals used by your county that hinder all your haircare and skincare efforts.

5. OK, here's my new routine and DevaCurl product replacement recommendations.
While these are what I like personally, it is not a definitive guide. Others have crowdsourced a publicly edit-able list of alternatives for each product, but note that there's zero vetting involved.
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1. Shampoo and conditioner: I replaced the no-poo co-wash DevaCurl cleansers (all listed in the lawsuit) with actual shampoo that removes product without stripping my natural oils, using it at least 2-3 times a week. Shampoo should only be applied to your scalp — leave your ends alone. People rave about expensive brands like Innersense and Verb, but I stick with this SheaMoisture shampoo and Cantu conditioner. (Check out SheaMoisture's curl type chart for personalized recommendations). If luxury is what you want, Curlsmith's Vivid Tones Vibrancy Shampoo protects my highlights while BounceCurl's Super Smooth Cream Conditioner makes my hair feel like butter.
2. Curl primer and leave-ins: Similar to how I'm not sure makeup primers do anything, I'm not convinced this needs to be a two-step process. But the important thing here is hydration and nourishment. While still in the shower I flip my soaking wet hair upside-down, raking a small amount of primer or light leave-in that I alternate depending on what my curls need. When they're fragile from coloring, a pinch of Hot Tresses Rehab Leave-In. For hydration, Be My Curl's Mane Squeeze (stylist recommended) or BounceCurl's Moisture Balance Leave-In. For my main leave-in, nothing beats Curlsmith's Curl Conditioning Oil-In-Cream, which woke me up to oil as essential to curly routines. Thicker curl types will probably love BounceCurls' Clump & Define Cream with the Denman brush, but it weighs my curls down a bit.
3. Styling gel: For me, this step is about sealing with a "cast" of gel that combats frizz and creates strong hold so my curls last three days. Technique is just as important as product here. The reigning champion replacement for my beloved Ultra Defining and Arc Angel DevaCurl gels (again, both listed in the lawsuits) is Dippity-Do Girls with Curls Gelee, applied with the praying hands technique and then scrunched up to my roots. Some popular alternatives like Ouidad's Heat & Humidity Control gave me that same burning sensation DevaCurl did. I can't rely on Be My Curls' To Have & To Hold gel alone, but do love how it hydrates while styling. Though it wasn't right for me, those with wavier, less frizz-prone hair should look into Bounce's Light Hold Creme Gel for touchable, lightweight results. An important lesson I learned for each of the above steps is to avoid putting much of any product directly on your roots (unless it's a treatment or shampoo). I focus almost exclusively on my ends, then rely on the plopping method to bunch all my hair on the top of my head so product trickles down a bit.
4. Refreshing method: A key to great styling products that last between wash days is ones that list water or "aqua" as one of the first ingredients. That means when you re-wet your hair with a spray bottle, the product re-activates, so you don't need to add much more and avoid build-up.
5. Treatments: Since I highlight my hair, Olaplex every other week is essential. But everyone can benefit from the occasional deep condition treatment, and thirsty curls will love SheaMoisture's Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Masque or more luxury-priced BounceCurls' Ayurvedic Deep Conditioner. Those jonesing for DevaCurl's Heaven in Hair (which, you guessed it, is also referenced in the lawsuit) should try the nearly identical Be My Curl's Seal the Deal. BounceCurls' Hair Detox is great for those with build-up and scalp issues (akin to a DIY apple cider vinegar treatment) but use it veryy sparingly. Don't leave any of these on longer than instructed.

The moral of this story, though, is that finding your personally-tailored curl routine will never be a paint by numbers experience. Just trust your gut, and be confident that you're the best expert on your hair.